Sunday, 19 August 2012

North to Luganville via Rano,Ratua and Aore Islands then home.

As we made our way north along Malekula Island, we spent a night at Rano Island anchored just a few metres from shore, then on to a private island and resort at Ratua Island.  There we snorkelled and enjoyed a scrumptious restaurant meal.  The next day we anchored off Luganville on Espirito Santo to prepare for the trip home.  This meant a taxi ride to town with borrowed jerry cans which were filled from the service station and then lugged to the beach to be transported by dinghy for unloading - over and over again until the tanks were filled.  Re-provisioning was just as difficult with sparse supermarket items and trips to the market for fresh fruit and vegetables.  Bananas, grapefruit, pawpaw, avocado and cucumber became our staples.

Sally's arrival at Luganville Airport was both joyous and eventful.  The winds had picked up, so we had previously re-located Isis across the Segond Channel to Aore Resort on Aore Island.  This meant a ferry ride in pouring rain (except we missed the ferry and accepted a lift from the crew of a nearby yacht), so a very wet welcome for our new crew.  That night was a Melanesian Feast, so Sally was soon immersed in Vanuatan culture from kava drinking to dancing rituals.  The next day she dived the Coolidge while Nick and I spent the whole morning doing the Customs and Immigration checking out ordeal.

The weather forecast was for blustery conditions for the first day, but we decided to go for it as the winds on our approach to Australia would progressively lighten if we delayed our departure further.  We made the 600 miles to Chesterfield Reef in 3 days.



 Anchored off Rano Island, northern Malekula


watching the locals fishing


 and chatting to these sisters returning from a day's work as tourist guides for a cruise ship.


 During our sail north Stuart landed this wahoo and delicately filletted it while underway.


The chart showing the large island of Espirito Santo with Ratua Island the small dot south of Aore Isalnd. 


 Ratua Resort on Ratua Island.


Stuart and I went snorkelling on the lagoon near Ratua in crystal clear water.


Dinner at Ratua Resort with Isis in the background.


 Sally about to get into the taxi for a tour of the island on her arrival at Luganville Airport.


 Nick trying to be patient as we walked the streets of Luganville to do the paper shuffle for clearing Customs and Immigration.


The people of Luganville were very friendly and anxious to be helpful.  All spoke perfect English.


Paperwork done, Nick waits for the ferry.


Sally and I at the Melanesian Feast having just been "wreathed".


 The dancers from the Banks Islands.


 Unsuspecting women soon became part of the dance ritual.


 As we departed on a rainy morning, we cast our wreaths ceremoniously upon the waters of Segond Channel.

The lush vegetation in the fog and rain soon disappeared as we left land behind us and the wind increased to 25 - 30 knots.  With the 3rd reef in the main and the genoa reduced by more than half, we made good headway with the wind abeam.

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We soon became used to our routine of 3 hours on and 3 hours off, which sometimes became 2 hourly when times were tough.  I was hand steering on this occasion as we shook out the sails at dawn.


Sally particularly enjoyed the dawn watch and as conditions moderated, we only had one on deck.

 Sally on watch doing some intense book work.

The first sighting of Chesterfield Reef was a lone coconut palm on the horizon, then the depth sounder went from infinity to 20 metres in seconds, then these atolls appeared.


Breakfast of banana rum pancakes was a special treat as we crossed the lagoon to Long Island.


 Nearing our anchorage on Long Island with the famous coconut palm - it was the only tree.


 There were millions of nesting birds to greet us, quite unfazed by our presence.


 Sally enjoying a perfect morning before we dived into the water for a snorkel.


This hatchling looked as though it was taking its first steps,


 while this young booby slept.


 At the top of the island examining a plaque alleged to be commemorating the early French explorers.  Chesterfield Reef is still claimed to be French territory.


Booby mating dance


 Snorkelling with the huge, roaring, ocean rollers in the background.


 Stuart and Sally


 Looking the part.


 After Chesterfield Reef we covered the last 470 miles in 3 days in varying conditions from rain squalls to less than 5 knots from every direction, so the dawn as we anchored at the Quarantine Buoy at Bundaberg was particularly enjoyable, with the moon and Venus adding to the scene.


The crew at Bundaberg Port Marina before driving home to Brisbane.  The last part of the journey will be in the next few weeks when we see a good weather window.

Saturday, 4 August 2012

Port Vila, Epi and Malekula Islands


The sail from Ouvea to Port Vila took us exactly 24 hours, and the entry formalities were soon completed so that we could discover the joys of this dusty, chaotic town which does have its attractive elements.  Re-provisioning, re-fueling and laundry duties were completed with enough time for some frivolity.  Several days later we spent a night in Havana Channel before sailing to Lamen Bay on Epi Island.  As we made our way to shore we could hear laughter and singing and soon discovered that it was Childrens' Day.  The very friendly people encouraged us to join the fesitivies as we watched a very charming ceremony where the children were garlanded with flowers by their mothers.  Even the boys enjoyed themselves.
A wind change soon had us scurrying back to the boat where we prepared to depart for the Maskelyne Islands at the southern tip of Malekula.  We anchored in a sheltered lagoon just before sunset with a boat from Holland, one from Germany and one from NZ who we soon joined for drinks and excursions ashore.


Stuart hoisting the new courtesy flag as we entered Mele Bay, Port Vila 
 Isis at a mooring in Port Vila before we moved to the marina
 Joining the Childrens' Day festivities at Lamen Bay, Epi Island
 The mothers with their garlands of flowers ready to present to the children
 A welcoming smile from Mariana as we arrived at Aweii Island in the Maskelynes
 Stuart buying a huge bunch of bananas from Mariana
 The fishermen from nearby Avokh Island came net fishing every day
 And offered us a selection of goat fish for lunch
 We were invited to Avokh village by the Chief and the boys are making kava in preparation
 A ceremonial canoe dance was performed for our small group of yachties
 The women were privileged to watch the performance and nervously posed for photos
 James, the Chief's son, showing us the kae kae prepared for us.  It was delicious.

 The sun shone as we sailed north and dozens of dolphins came out to play
 And then Stuart had the fight of his life to land this Wahoo
 At Litz Litz, Port Stanley we ordered a taxi to take Brigitte to the airport - how stylish
 The airport lounge at Norsup Airport just before Brigitte squeezed into a commuter flight to Vila, and on to Brisbane
 Sailing regatta Malekula style - eat your heart out Hood Sails
 We were invited to attend Independence Day at Uripiv Island, and this is a typical village house
 The celebrations for Vanuatu Independence Day get underway with villagers coming from many other islands
 Nick was chosen as guest of honour representing us all and is being presented with a lei - he had to sit and listen to long speeches for hours with the dignitaries
 Hans with his ukelele had us all singing with other cruising couples who we sailed with over a period of a week.  It was drinks onboard Isis that night
Stuart feeling very overdressed